Urban chickens need more space

[gardenjoinery]

I have been talking with a woman who is teaching classes on urban chickens in my area. She is helping us modify our designs for the urban situation, which is a little different than what we have done in the past because we have always dealt with chickens that had unlimited ranging space. She said that her experience is that, if chickens are cooped a lot, or otherwise contained, they need AT LEAST five feet of open floor (besides feeders, boxes, roosts) or they get to pecking, especially in winter. Interesting input, for me, because I see a lot of plans and kits and coops out there that give numbers that would not work in urban settings, given her experience. I saw a coop on MyPetChicken, for instance, has a $1600 4'x6' coop that they say is large enough for 15 hens! That seems really small. Fred and others, your thoughts?

[gardengirl72]

In my method, five square feet sounds about right. In my tractors which have 32 square feet each I put five to six birds, and I move the tractor once a month. So I would say that My Pet Chicken is crazy, and super over priced. For sixteen hundred bucks Fred could get the Amish to build a Chicken City for sure.

But that's just me- Rich Lifestyle. Frugal Budget!

Real Foodies Grow there Own (and keep their money)!

[Fred's Fine Fowl]

When it comes to a structure in which your chickens may be kept for extended periods of time, due to weather and so on, the standard population density for good litter condition and each bird having it's own adequate floor space is a minimum of 4 sq. ft. per large standard chicken.

Bantams can make due with less, around 3 sq. ft. per bird.

In the northeast, where weather may get very cold, a building that is too large, will not benefit from bird's body heat. A building that is too small for the population, will have damp flooring very soon and may have condensation building on the walls, windows and if they are in one of those metal roofed systems (I don't like metal roofs as they transmit too much heat and cold), condensation will also collect on the roof.

There is the secondary issue of which breed is being kept. More active, or nervous birds (Leghorns for example) will in-fight and be more stressed if kept in close confinement.

Plenty of perch space is also necessary, to they don't fight over who roosts where...

So, very large is also potentially a problem as they will seek to hide if they feel left out in the open.

The size you mention, if it is to keep birds confined, is far too small, in my opinion, for the number cited. I'd say more like 6 max, if the birds are large standard sized chickens.

Breed temperament is indeed a factor, if the concern is birds turning on one another, or showing signs of stress due to population densities. The amount of light also is a factor when considering the stress factor. Low light in the coop and the darkest section should be for nest boxes.

Hope this information helps...

Good Luck,

Fred

www.FredsFineFowl.com

[gardengirl72]

Thanks Fred. Valuable information now that chicks are about to arrive everywhere. By the way how are your Emu doing?

[gardenjoinery]

I agree, Fred, that coop seems much too small! Interesting about the breeds, too. So much to learn!

I am also interested in your feedback on metal roofs and too much space.

BTW - is there a particular reason why so many of the chicken coops are Amish-made?

[Fred's Fine Fowl]

There are many designs out there with metal roofs... normally aluminum, ridged, with self sealing screws or ringed nails.

They are a builder's choice, as they go on quickly, are easy to install/cut and save on roof lumber, as they are attached to furring strips which run the length of a gable roof.

A metal roof is also light weight and long lasting. The weight issue is why it's so often selected for portable units.

Take a portable coop design with a wooden roof, traditional shingles and metal... (tin galv, or aluminum)...

Metal roofs have a problem in that they are conductive of both heat and cold. Aluminum is efficient in this way, and offers almost no sound dampening (stand by one while it's raining or a rooster is crowing).

A metal roof rep. will suggest a white color to reflect summer heat.. nice, but then in winter, brrrr. A colder climate calls for a darker color, to take advantage of the sun's warming rays during the day.. but at night... brrrrr.

Any material, wood for instance, which traps and holds air, will offer "some" insulating factor. The thicker, the better... but where weight is a factor, thinner will be the choice.

To give insulation and sound dampening characteristics to the metal roof, there will be rafters, sheathing, roof felt, then the metal roofing material... and the result is a high quality, but heavy roof.

The Amish build so many plank and batten type coop and shed structures, as it suits their style of building and full dimensional lumber, often rough cut.

An Amish 2x4, rough cut, is 2'x4"... lumber in our building centers is 1.5 x 3.5 S4S (Surfaced Four Sides)...

The Amish cut their own lumber, harvest their own wood, and frame up their own structures... buying in nails, roofing materials and hardware. They often even have their own stain mixes. Anyone who receives an unfinished rough cut shed from the Amish, had better have gallons of stain ready, as there is no wood more porous and absorbent! Lumber from the Building Centers such as Lowe's or Home Depot (in PA) is kiln dried, which means the wood has been dried, normally to less than 16% moisture content and is pretty stable dimensionally after installation. Amish lumber is, based on my personal building experience, on the move... board width will change quite a bit as the lumber dries out. Cracks, knots which open and if not nailed in anticipation of this movement, full length splits.

The lumber produced by most Amish mills (speaking only about my area) is not suitable for stick built code compliant construction. Too soft, little or no dimensional quality control and lacking in structural strength as compared to that used in current construction. In short, sheds and non code enforced structures, are right up the Amish mill's lane! I'm not writing against Amish lumber, only informing on what one may expect if it's to be used. I personally use both.

Hope this "sheds" (pun intended) some light on the issue(s)?

Happy building!

Fred

www.FredsFineFowl.com

[gardenjoinery]

:) Thanks Fred!

I am pretty familiar with the building trades. We use a lot of reclaimed and rough-cut materials in our work, including stacks of corrugated roofing when we come by it (the job we are doing now specs a standing seam, so I will chat with the client about the temp issue). We have heavy-bodied birds, and they just don't seem to get cold, which is amazing. Our coop is tall, much taller than it needs to be because the whole frame is actually reclaimed in its entirety, so the birds tend to roost up high on the plates. But, during the depths of frigid winter, there were a few nights when a couple hid and stayed out (they are kind of ditzy without a rooster!), and they were fine. I was really amazed. We have a red lamp for the bitterest cold, but I think it is more for our piece of mind than anything else! Plus, when dark comes at 4pm, it's nice to be able to see in the coop!